pickme
672 posts
Joined: 08/09/2004 23:10:14
Location: Chippenham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Top dash rail.
As far as I know, its held on with a whole series of metal trim clips all across the front edge where it tucks under the dash rail. The back is held in place by the screen vents which youll need to take of and put back on after fitting the pad. Not sure what the bolts are for though. Where are they on the pad? Ill have a look at mine to see if that has bolts.
Posted: Mar 15, 2005 07:34 AM
issigonis
5 posts
Joined: 25/06/2006 22:05:41
Location: tunbridge wells United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Wheel Trim for 12' steels
Hi sarah - ive just got some 12 inch trims for my mini , if you look on the online shop ,here on minispares under wheels section ,part no NAM9184MMJ . But dont forget to order the clips as well. Rob
Posted: Aug 15, 2006 10:13 PM
abs
98 posts
Joined: 08/11/2007 20:20:11
Location: cornwall United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
clubby estate
Hi, does anyone know the part number of the clip that holds the chrome trim that surrounds the wood effect trim on the side my 1976 estate, also has anyone come up with more durable solution for replacing the sliding window channels rather than the cloth and steel originals? Thanks.
Posted: Dec 04, 2009 09:35 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
please help with where to cut metal fuel line in mk 1 cooper s engine bay?
Hi, The fuel line runs in the metal clips under the floor to the inside of the footwell depression. It then sweeps across and up between the bulkhead and the subframe to the bracket that contains the heater hose pipes. At the front of this bracket is a small hole (3/8") with a rubber grommet reducing it to 1/4" tohold the fuel pipe and stop it chafing. Trim the fuel pipe to be about 1.5" above the grommet so that you have sufficient to fit the braided flexible pipe onto.
You might need to check a few workshop or parts manuals to see what shape the bends in the pipe should be if you didn't keep the original as a pattern.
Posted: Mar 06, 2012 11:48 AM
re
Don - the wiring loom runs inside the roof gutter behind the headlining and down into the rear pillar. youre best way of getting to this without taking out the rear screen and headlining is to come at it from the rear edge of the side window opening. Undo the screws holding the catch in place and then undo the two holding the front edge to the B-Post and remove the side window. next peel away the back edge of the water seal from the body and remove the two sring clips holding the rear pillar trim in place. peel back the edge of the rear pillar vinyl trim and you should be able to see inside far enough behind the cardboard liner to locate the wire. Use a piece of bent wire as a hook to retrieve it. If you still can't find it then you'll have to consider removing the headlining and rear shelf trim in order to release more of the rear pillar trim.
Posted: Jan 31, 2011 02:51 PM
Roof Gutter Molding Shrinkage
Hi Mike,
This shouldn't happen. I've had 5 Minis and 3 of them had the gutter moulding. 2 of those 3 had a single join at the front in the middle. The other 1 had a joint front and back. None of them shrunk. They should be a lightweight aluminium strip with a black resin coating and joined with a metal clip that is anodised 'black'.
I would ask for your money back as the goods are not fit for purpose and you shouldn't have to pre-shrink a gutter trim by leaving it out in the sun for a few months.
Posted: Jun 05, 2013 02:49 PM
CHECK ARM RUBBER GROMMETS 1970-1986
Scratch,
I seem to recall that they were held on with a body trim clip similar to an ADH3809 but it's been a few years since I had one of those models.
I notice you live in Swanley. Take a walk down to GC Minis (http://www.gcminis.co.uk/) and ask them if they have an unrestored one you can check against.
Posted: Aug 22, 2014 09:32 AM
Pot Joint Boot Clip
Pass it through the bottom of the clip and then bend it back over the clip. Whilst keeping it tight , crimp the edges over to retain it.
If you can't get on with that clip then go to Wickes and buy a reel of galvanised garden wire. Cut a length that is 10cm longer than the circumference of the boot and then fit this using a pair of flat nose pliers to twist it around approx 5-6 times. Trim the excess to 2 cms length and then bend it back with the tails pointing away from the direction of travel (i.e. nearside joint will fold back clockwise when viewed from the driveshaft end)
I've done this on all my joints to match them to the original factory finish (for a Mk2) I did try the plastic cable ties provided but find these get caught inside the hub carrier and tear off when they meet the threaded backplate retaining holes. And galvanised wire is biodegradable eventually whereas nylon isn't.
Posted: Mar 19, 2010 01:58 PM
taffy1967
1783 posts
Joined: 27/09/2006 18:58:07
Location: Rhondda-Cynon-Taff United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
non locking door
You're going to have to remove the inner door trim panel, which is quite easy once you've removed all the plastic handles and door bin (if fitted). Just use a wide screwdriver to carefully un-prize the clips if their being awkward and don't worry if you snap any because most motor factors stock replacements.
Anyway once the door trim is out of the way, you just need to reconnect the little latch arm back on to the door lever. A long screwdriver should do the trick and if you don't have a Haynes Mini manual (shame on you), don't worry too much because it's all available here: -
Haynes Mini Manual link
Posted: Dec 04, 2007 05:21 PM
opening rear wimdow
you need the new rubber seal, the replacement window complete with latch and the bracket that screws to the C-post (rear pillar), the chrome plate countersunk screws for the rear and dome head screws for the front edge. you also need the square plastic pegs to go in the holes in the C-post to take the latch.
a battery hand drill and drill bit to match the domed self tappers and some masking tape to stop the drill sliding everywhere and a pencil and phillips screwdriver. take out the old windows and seal and flog it on ebay afterwards.
under the cardboard c-post trim are two square holes in the panel - carefully peel back the cardboard to locate them and fit the plastic clips - then using the self tapper screw thorugh to pick up the insert - do this to both clips to save hassle later. now put a strip of masking tape on the rear of the B-post andfit the rubber and offer up the window - make a pencil mark where the front clips fit. remove window and rubber and carefulyl drill the holes. remove tape and hoover metal from carpet :)
fit rubber, fit glass, screw in front clips, screw in rear clips and hey presto - job done!
Posted: Mar 04, 2011 09:27 AM
Scratch
8 posts
Joined: 13/05/2014 21:38:52
Location: Swanley United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Posted: Aug 29, 2014 08:18 AM